The internationally well-known and
most important shrinking process
today dates back more than 70 years.
Though the correct expression for
this process is Controlled
Compressive Shrinkage, the average
person knows it as SANFORIZED. The
process is a purely mechanical
treatment without any addition of
chemicals.
The word SANFORIZED is derived from
the first name of the inventor of
the compressive shrinkage process,
Mr. Sanford L. Cluett.
The Sanforized Company, a division
of Cluett Peabody & Co., Inc., New
York, USA, is sole owner of the
registered trademarks Sanforized,
Sanfor and Sanforizado.
The Sanforized label means
dimensional stability for garments
made up of Sanforized labeled
fabrics.
The purpose of the process is to
shrink fabrics in such a way that
textiles made up of these fabrics do
not shrink during washing.
The amount of potential wash
shrinkage must be determined prior
to shrinking. A full width sample is
wash-tested according to the test
method. After the lengthwise and
widthwise shrinkage has been
determined, the compressive
shrinkage machine can be adjusted
accordingly.
The process can be described by the
following schematic:
Fabric (F) passes through the
skyer (S) or other moistening
device and is moistened by water
and/or steam. This will lubricate
the fibers and promote shrinkability
within the fabric. Normally, a
fabric must be moistened in such a
way that every single thread
achieves a moisture content of
approximately 15%. This allows
compression of the fabric with very
little resistance.
When the fabric passes through the
clip expander (C), we obtain
the required width. The clip
expander also transports the fabric
to the most important part of the
machine: the rubber belt unit
(indicated by arrows in above
figure). In the close-up of fig. 1,
we see the endless rubber belt
(R). By squeezing rubber belt
(R) between pressure roll (P)
and rubber belt cylinder (RB),
we obtain an elastical stretching of
the rubber belt surface. The more we
squeeze the rubber belt, the more
the surface is stretched. This point
of squeezing is known as the
pressure zone, or the nip point.
Fabric (F) is now fed into
the pressure zone. When leaving the
pressure zone, the rubber belt
recovers itself and the surface
returns to its original length
carrying the fabric with it. The
effect of this action is a shorting
of the warp yarn which packs the
filling yarns closer together. At
this actual moment, shrinkage
occurs.
After compaction within the rubber
belt unit, the fabric enters the
dryer (D). Here the fibers
are locked in their shrunken state
by removing the moisture from the
fabric.
After the compressive shrinkage
process is completed, another sample
of the fabric is taken. This sample
is also wash-tested. The final
result of this test must meet the
Sanforized Standard, in length and
width before it may carry the
Sanforized label.
All Sanforized Licensees are
contractually obligated to follow
the required test method and meet
the standards set forth by The
Sanforized Company |
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