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Bedford Cord.
A waled, or Cord, material. Two-ply warp yarns and heavier single or ply yarns use as a backing. these heavy yarns are caught at intervals in the weaving of the fabric. single yarns some times used in cheaper version; the effect of the cord is obtained in the weaving. wale runs in warp can be napped in back, bleached, dyed, or printed. the face of the fabric may be given a suede finish.

Bird's Eye
tHREE TYPES:(1)a clear-finish worsted fabric woven to produce small indentations suggesting the eye of a bird.(2) Also known as Diaper Cloth. Fabric woven on a dobby loom of carded yarns in tiny geometric designs that look like the eye of a bird,  or in diamond effect. Heavier filling yarns are loosely twisted,  making the fabric absorbent. Usually made of cotton, rayon, or blends of then, (3)Knit fabric with a speckled effect on the back caused by use of different  colored yarns appearing as a design on the face

Broadcloth.
Three major types: (1) Originally, silk shirting fabric so named because it was woven in widths exceeding 29 inches (74 cm). A fine, smooth, closely woven fabric in plain colors or in woven stripes; also known as silk shirting, It has a plain weave, Used for shirts and dresses. (2) Plain, closely woven fabrics of either carded or combed cotton or polyester/cotton yarns with a filling wise rib effect. Originally a poplin or adapted from a poplin construction. broad Cloths are of lighting weight with a finer rib. Ribs are made by using finer warp yarn and medium filling. Better broadcloths of 144 x 76. Coarser fabrics often have both ply and single carded yarns. (3) A fine wool fabric of twill weave, fuelled to achieve uniform texture. The surface in then napped, closely sheared, and polished to give glossary, Velvety hand .  Good draping qualities. Used for suits and Coats

Canvas.
(Also see Duck) Many fabrics come under this heading. Two principal types:(1) Open-mesh canvas used for embroidery; made of hard twisted yarns; very durable. Most popularly known in this group is Java canvas. (2) Close-woven canvas made from coarse hard-twisted yarns from 2 - to 14-ply in the plane weave; in various weights. Finishes rang from heavily sized to soft.

Calvary Twill.
 Pronounced raised 63 right- hand double twill line of woolen, worsted, or manmade spun yarns. Strong, rugged, used for coats, suits.

Chambray.
Patterns formed by the use of colored. Yarn warp and natural or white filling. his gives a tiny check or mottled effect. there are endless variations of this fabric, such as stripes and satin stripes. The end-to-end chambrays are woven with alternate colored and natural or white yarns in warp and all natural or white yarns in filling, or vice versa.  Many novelties on the market.

Chino.
Cotton or cotton blend compact plain or twill fabric made popular as summer wear for armed forces.

Chintz.
A cotton print cloth of high-count plain weave with bright, attractive floral or geometric designs, both large and small. Singed, sized, glazed, friction calendared. Often given a permanent or semi permanent glaze; then known as glazed chintz. for draperies, Slipcovers, dresses.

Corduroy.
A ribbed pile fabric with a high, soft luster. made with extra filling Threads or extra warp threads. In weaving, the extra filling  yarns form loops or floats over the ground threads. After weaving, the loop threads are cut on a special machine. threads are then brushed, forming a pile.

Crape.
Has a pebbly or crinkled surface produced by use of special crepe yarns.  Can be either crape, granite, or plain weave. Generally, mixed-twist crepe yarns used in both warp and filling; occasionally crepe yarns used only in the warp or the filling Mostly woven on a box-loom. Crepe effects can also be obtain by chemical treatment and embossing.

Dobby.
woven on a dobby loom. All material with small figures, such as dots and geometric designs;  very small floral patterns woven in the fabric such as certain shirting; also huck towels, diapers cloth, certain dress goods, drapery and upholstery fabrics. Can be dyed, bleached , or yarn-dyed in many colors.

Drill.
A durable fabric of medium weight  Usually, three-harness warp-face left-hand twills made of carded sheeting yarns, Comes in various weights and threads counts. When dyed, known as khaki, ticking, Silesia, herringbones. Warp goes over two filling yarns, then under one.

Duck.
Covers a wide range of fabrics. It is one of the most durable fabrics made. A closely woven, heavy material. The most important fabrics in this group are  known as number duck, army duck, and flat or ounce duck. Number and army ducks are always of plain weave with medium or heavy ply yarns; army ducks are the lighter. Once ducks always have single warp yarn woven in pairs and single or ply filling yarns. Other variations of these fabrics are sail duck, belt duck, hose duck, tire duck (such as breaker, cord, chafer) wide and narrow duck, biscuit duck, harvester duck, oil-press duck, wagon duck, enameling duck, boot duck, canvas, and so on. Generally of ply yarns in warp and yarns of various sizes and weights in filling. Thread counts range from 54 x 40 to 72 x 40.

Flannel.
a full napped woven fabric, made generally of wool yarns. Usually woven with a twill weave, which may be obscured by the nap. Distinguished for its softness. Used for bath robs, skirts, men's suits and trousers. Cotton flannel or flannelette is similar in appearance.  

Gabardine.
A distinctive 45˚ or 65˚ warp-face twill of carded or combed cotton, rayon, or worsted yarns. Twill is to the left if made with all single yarns, and to the right when ply warp and single filling yarns.

Ottoman.
Heavy, plain weave fabric with wide, flat crosswise ribs that are larger and higher than in faille. Sometimes comes with alternating narrow and wide ribs. When made of narrow ribs only, it is called soleil. Warp may be silk, wool or manmade fiber. Used for dress coats and suits, trimmings.

Oxford.
A Plain basket weave of medium or heavy weight. Made with a variety of cotton, Rayon, or polyester/cotton yarns. The majority of oxfords are of combed yarns, with heavier filling than warp yarns. Cheaper grades are mixed carded yarns, two warp yarns, placed flat next to each other, are woven over and under one heavier filling thread. Usually mercerized. A number of variations of this  weave are on the market . For shirting's, dresses, and similar purposes.

Percale.
Plain weave of medium-weight, carded or combed cotton or polyester/cotton yarn. Fabric in the print cloth group. Usually given a firm finish. Can be bleached, dyed, or printed. Sheeting percale generally of finer yearn, higher count.

Poplin
Two major types  (1) Originally a fabric having a silk warp and a filling that consisted of a wool yarn heavier then silk, thus producing a  ribbed surface something like a rep (2) Now made of staple fiber, Heavier filling then warp yarns and more threads in the warp than filling, giving a heavier rib effect then broadcloth. Print cloth yarns mostly Combed yarns in the better cloth. Many mixture made. Poplin come in man variations, such as slubs, nubs, and yarn-dyed checks and strips Mainly dyed solid colors or printed. Often given special finishes, such as water-repellent, fire-retardant, mildew proof.

Sateen.
A Cotton fabric usually woven so that the surface is smooth and the finish lustrous, resembling satin. Can be either a strong warp-face sateen or a softer filling-face sateen. Often, though not always, filling sateen's have a softer finish than warp sateen's. Either carded or combed yarns.

Satin.
Originally silk, now also of filament man-made fibers with a highly lustrous surface and usually a dull back. Made in different weights according to its uses, which vary from lingerie and dress gods to drapery and upholstery fabrics. May be made with a cotton back. Sometimes double-faced for use as ribbon.

Seersucker.
Light-to medium-weight fabric of cotton or manmade fiber, of plain or crepe weave with crinkled strips in cloth made by alternating tight and slack twist  warp yarns. Usually with dyed warp yarn producing stripes. Imitations are chemically treated or embossed plisse. Used for summer suits, dresses bedspreads.

Sheeting.
Plain weave. Mostly carded but occasionally combed yarns in all weights: light, medium, and heavy. Generally about the same number of yarns in warp as in filling, but often warp yarns are heavier than filling. Sheeting comes in both wide and narrow widths. Yarn size rang from 10s to 30s. May be made of cotton or any other major natural or manmade fiber.

Waffle Cloth.
Similar to pique in texture. Honey-comb weave made on dobby loom. Usually of cotton.

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